The Heart of the Country

Rum, pum, pum, Rum, pum, pum. This dramatic beat echoed in the air as young drummer boys kept time for the marching soldiers during the Revolutionary war. Then, this beat of the drums kept time for the Union and Confederacy as they solved their differences on the battle field. This beat, this life force, supported the founding of my country, and it molded this nation, taking an idea and making it a reality. Today, the drums that beat the heartbeat in our country are silenced, replaced by commanding officers shouting "left...left." But much better than war, the heartbeat of the drums has been replaced by the heartbeat of a dream.

Washington, D.C. You've heard the name. You may have even been there. But what did you see? A bunch of tourists with cameras, waiting in lines, spending massive amounts of money on cheap souvenirs. Joggers and bikers running through the parks, intent on getting in those last couple of miles. Maybe businessmen and women in dark suits, rushing down the street, phones to their ears, trying to make it to their oh-so-important meeting.

Chances are, if you spent more than ten minutes in D.C. that you probably saw all of this. And isn't it great? Don't look at the individual tableaux, but look at the symbolism beneath. People can freely come and explore our country. In fact, they WANT to come and revel in what we have to offer. Because it is good. I saw the cutest French family on my most recent trip. The children were so excited to have their pictures taken with the Washington monument in the background. They exclaimed away in their childish French, "My turn. My turn." As citizens, we can freely move about, going from one town to the next, exploring the history and culture(s) of our country. That's not the case in many countries, including Russia, where you have to register and unregister every time you travel to another city.

And then, look at the beauty. Huge expansive parks, lined with trees. Perfect for exercising or relaxing. My favorite activity at the National Mall is people watching. I am delighted as I see friends playing football, soccer, baseball, and frisbee, running up and down the fields, laughing and joking and teasing. Families sit down and have actual picnics, talking, COMMUNICATING with each other. Mothers with their babies in their strollers. Children sitting atop their father's shoulders. No wars. No politics. Just vitality. America was founded for times like this, for actions like these.

Then, there are the colors. Everywhere, whether spring, summer, winter, or fall, there are magnificent colors. Right now, the colors are red, orange, yellow, and green. Flowing, Falling, Fluttering, Cascading. Leaves and grass. Beauty, true, unadulterated beauty in the heart of a city. Oh, the glories of God and nature. Enough to make your heart sing and your feet dance.

And yes. Capitalism and Democracy. Businessmen who rush back and forth. Politicians who lobby and "persuade." Even they have their place, because without them, we would be stuck in a land full of tyrants and dictators. Whether we disagree or agree with what they have to say and what they do, without them, we would have no voice. We would have no jobs and no job options without healthy capitalism. Whether we like it or not, capitalism is what lets us do what we WANT to do, and not what we are TOLD to do. It allows for creativity (and depravity, yes), inspiration, courage, determination, persistence. It is this that allows a man to beat out a rhythm, in the middle of a sidewalk, on a set of brightly-colored garbage cans. And it's wonderful. It is this that lets us get lost in and dance to the melodies of a trumpeter in the middle of the day.

This life force is the heartbeat of our country. It's a magnificent artery, truly. But, even beyond that there is so much more to D.C.

My personal favorite is the National Gallery of Art. So much to say and exclaim over. Toulouse-Lautrec, Pablo Picasso, Edgar Degas, Giorgio Vasari! They even have the only public DaVinci in the country. There are not enough words to use to describe my awe, and there is never enough time to thoroughly devour all of the works of art in these three buildings and sculpture gardens.

There's the botanical garden that covers every climate on earth. There's Chinatown, and the many, many college areas where frat boys run around making fools of themselves. There's the Kennedy Center where theatre majors can experience what the stage is really about, and the audience can interact with the characters of the play. There is just so much to this city, that it can really be extraordinarily overwhelming. And that is wonderful. That is America.

This is my country. This is my love.

Roswell: Where Dreamers Dream

"Whoever sent us down here was smart, you know? Because they sent us together, and as long as we stick together, we're gonna make it." From the show Roswell.

Roswell: Think about it and thoughts of aliens, crop circles, and government conspiracies simultaneously spring to mind. But, the thing is, Roswell is so much more than that. Roswell is a city full of dreams and life. It's a city full of polarities. It's a city full of art and invention and mystery. It's a city based on the premise "What if."

As you drive into Roswell from the south end on 285, then you may wonder what is so special about Roswell. It looks like any other run-down New Mexican town. The buildings are abandoned, old adobe walls with faded paint. Lifeless vehicles sit out in the parking lots, fading under the withering stare of the hot desert sun. New businesses, old businesses, a small-town courthouse square, summer Saturdays with farmer's markets: all contribute to the local color and culture.

But, gather up your courage and continue your drive. Look beyond the facade and see the history. Greek revival funeral homes, Victorian and ranch and adobe style houses all tell a story. Buildings loom larger and larger, a symbol of growth and promise. Roswell is also host to the New Mexico Military Institute where patriots train to defend our country. The sprawling campus allows passers-by a glimpse of green fields when all else is brown and bleached gold.

What if we give people artistic freedom without guidelines?:
More than that though. Despite it's small town, country yokel, cliched atmosphere that most people see, lies a thriving hub of art and music and culture. One of my favorite places to visit in Roswell is the Anderson Museum of Contemporary Art. One of my favorite installations is a number of golf club bags, molded and fixed up to look like sharks, swimming from the ceiling.

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In addition to the Anderson art museum, there is also the Roswell Museum and Art Center which exhibits the works of Peter Hurd and Georgia O'Keefe, among others.

What if we train our students to continue their education and explore the delights of music and nature?

Roswell is home to several parks, promoting healthier lifestyles and family fun. During the summer, live music can be found in some of the parks.

Additionally, Roswell even has its own orchestra and community theatre. Now, while you may not get Carnegie Hall quality music, you do at least get a taste of the finer things life has to offer. The local campus also provides theatrical performances such as "Beauty and the Beast." And, before your performance, you can grab dinner at one of the little tea shoppes or steak houses that are constantly springing forth from concrete.

What if we question authority?
And then, then there is the conspiracy. The mysterious accident that slammed Roswell on the map. Aliens. Flying Saucers. Mysterious and unknown metal debris. In 1947 something strange and mysterious happened in the town of Roswell, and ever since then Roswell has become a major hub for those open-minded explorers on their spiritual quest for answers. Do aliens exist? Can we trust our government? What really happened that summer of 1947, and what does the government keep in Area 51? These questions are found and semi-answered in the UFO museum here in town. Unfortunately, for the more objective explorer, the current museum is a bit of a let-down (but that doesn't mean it isn't worth the $5 entrance fee). However, current plans are underway for a bigger and better museum, chock full of materials, stories, and evidence that life does exist on other planets. However, just hearing the stories from live witnesses is enough to make a trip to Roswell worth it.

In the meantime, whether you believe in aliens or not, the Roswell UFO festival at the beginning of July is always a big hit, filled with live music, interesting lectures, costume competitions, and lots and lots and lots of delicious food.

Roswell is so much more than a countrified town. Yes, it's small and has some of that southern charm that some call countrified or hick-ish, but it's an open-minded, explorative town with heart and charm and growing sophistication. The people here aren't afraid to explore other modes of thinking. They embrace there history while continuing to expand. Roswell has a history and museum's worth of stories; it has a life of its own. And all of this just goes to show that it's a city based on "What if."

Inside the Land of Enchantment: Albuquerque

The perfect big city with a small-time feel. Albuquerque is nestled around the Sandian mountains and runs into the Chihuahuan Desert. Albuquerque's claim to fame comes through the famous Route 66 highway in 1926 which, before retirement by the US government, used to run right through the town. Now, route 66 has been relegated to a touristy scenic route, but the city has continued to grow and has become the 32nd largest city in the country with almost one million inhabitants.

By now you may be thinking, besides an old road, what exactly does this old New Mexican town have to offer. The answer is "quite a bit." Albuquerque is home to the largest university in NM, New Mexico University. Like most college towns, UNM has brought in quite a bit of local businesses including a number of delicious eateries like The Frontier, several bookshops and used bookshops (which are so underrated), and there is even a hostel. Yes, the US does have hostels.

For my stay, I resided at the Route 66 hostel. For my first hostel experience, I was pleasantly surprised. The staff and other visitors were extremely friendly. In fact, my last night there I got into a two-three hour conversation with a guy from Quebec and a guy from South Africa who were making their way across the US. The hostel provided a kitchen with limited food stuffs (cereal, bread, peanut butter, fruit, etc) which the could be used at any time. There was a fairly comfy, if small, common room. The main drawback to the place was the lack of AC in the dormitories. But, for the price and the pleasant company, I could easily put up with it.

Besides the university there are several other sites and fame claimers. First, never forget that New Mexico is huge when it comes to everything Native American. Albuquerque is no exception. Not too far away from the historic district is the Indian Pueblo Cultural Center. This summer, they are featuring Zuni dances. As a historian, I find this museum (as I find most museums these days) saddening. However, as just a curious observer and tourist, it should provide at least an hour of entertainment and enlightenment. This summer they have a special exhibit from the Smithsonian on display.

Next to Old Town is the botanical garden, featuring southern and desert flora, and the aquarium. Then, there is the art. NEVER FORGET the ART. Just walking through central and downtown is an art experience, which is probably why there are several walking tours. And, if you are into movies and cinema, Albuquerque is beginning to boom as a studio and filming location. You never know, but you may get lucky enough to get caught in the background or see some filming going on. Of course, if you are in Albuquerque for any length of time and have the money, Albuquerque is also known for hot air balloon rides. Every October they have a festival where hot air balloons of all types are on display through parades, private businesses, and more.

Then, there is the Old Town. Old town has your stereotypical, but upkept, Old West type of structures which have been converted into art shops, eateries, jewelry sellers, and more. One of my best experiences of the weekend happened here. I just happened to walk into an art shop specializing in indigenous artwork by Daniel Ramirez (the owner), when he walked in behind me and introduced me to his shop. As he began explaining his work, we somehow ended up in a 20-30 minute conversation about myths, legends, cultures, and more. I found him fairly well-informed and very interesting to talk with.

Albuquerque has a little something for everyone. A large university and all that comes with it, several national and mom and pop stores and restaurants, art, cinema, nature (there are extensive RV hook ups and camping and hiking spots) are just some of the attractions. However, despite its rather large size, the city itself isn't as daunting as it may appear. While there is definitely traffic, it isn't that bad for a town of its size, and the streets are fairly easy to navigate. Architecturally, there are several adobe style buildings, but there is also a fair amount of modern architecture. There're even some Victorian styles thrown in. I know I'm not an expert on Albuquerque by any means, but I was fairly impressed with it from my short time there.

Sincerely,
Your American Nomad

Inside the Land of Enchantment, Ruidoso

Introduction: Gertrude Stein once wrote, "America is my country, but Paris is my hometown." I've loved this quote for a while now, and in many ways I relate to it. I am a native Texan. I was born there, and I have lived most of my life there. I am proud to be a Texan. I love the vastness of the state, the pride of the state. In my mind, I am and will always be a Texan. But, my heart is a true New Mexican. My family moved to NM when I was two, and we lived there until I was seven. Even after we moved back to TX, I spent almost every holiday and summer vacation at my grandparents house in NM. Now, when I have a choice of where to go when I want, need to get away, I choose NM.

Ruidoso:
I've spent at least one week a year here for the past four years. For those who are not familiar with the landscape and geography of NM, Ruidoso is in the Central to Southeast region of New Mexico. During the winter it serves as a popular town for skiers. In the southern region, its attraction lies in the natural and abundant hiking opportunities, coupled with all the charm of an art-ridden mountain paradise. Summers in Ruidoso are packed with tourists who eagerly participate in the horse races, art shows, and hiking adventures.

I have two favorite things to do in Ruidoso. To begin with I always love walking down the unending main street and exploring all the curio shops. Ruidoso provides the perfect blend of Southern flavor and mountain new-age freedom. The shops host a variety of local goodies - everything from homemade fudge to incense to dream catchers to native american artwork to vintage and second-hand clothing. The buildings themselves are colorful and varied in style and design. Victorian buildings sit next to adobe structures which are adjacent to log cabins. One of my favorite shops is an art house which showcases not only the traditional landscape pieces, but breath-taking human portraits. One artist even has the tradition of capturing extreme details in his subjects, but he always leaves out the eyes.

My second favorite place in Ruidoso is Inn of the Mountain Gods Resort and Casino. The Inn is located on reservation property and owned by the Mescalero Apache tribe. While I am not a gambler, I love the resort for its location and architectural beauty. When you walk into the front foyer, the first thing you notice is the back wall - one large window. Your gaze is captured and you walk toward the back. But before you get there you notice two parallel stair cases. In between the two stairs lies a huge, two story fountain. The fountain is painted and has a Native American design on it. At this point, you look away from the fountain and the windowed back wall. Along the walls on either side of you are paintings - painting after painting of Native American art. Gorgeous earth-toned hues blended and mixed to capture the beauty of Earth and her people. Back to the glass wall. Finally, you've found yourself at the back of the resort. What you see makes you gasp. Outside, running down the two floors to the ground is a man-made architectural wonder of a water fall.

The weather is typically cooler in the Lincoln county forest regions as the evergreens that populate the mountains provide shade and fresh air. Unfortunately, this year, drought and an over-abundance of zealous fires have ravaged the entire state of New Mexico. Even the mountains of Ruidoso provide no refuge for the tired and sunburnt peoples of New Mexico. This year when I went, I almost wept. My green trees were burned. My cool air was blistering. The streets were fairly empty. The whole country has been consumed by this massive heat-wave. But what many people don't realize is that New Mexico has been dealing with it much longer. My area of the state has seen two mini-rain falls in over eight months. Add that added to 100+ degree weather and the results are heart-breaking. People naturally assume that when you see brown plants, the plants are dead. When you are in a drought, you know that's not true. It's when you see sun-bleached blonde-white plants that hopes are lost. However, one thing NM has taught me is that even when all the life has been sucked out of the plants, there is still a wonderful, majestic beauty in the Land of Enchantment.

Summer, 2007

Summer, 2011

Sincerely,
An American Nomad

Home Again, Home Again

I've been home, back in the US, for over a week now, still trying to figure out how to end this blog. There is so much I want to say about my time in Russia, but I am completely at a loss to describe everything. In the end, I have decided that the best way to end my chronicles is to answer two questions that I have been asked repeatedly since my return and then follow them by the top 15 things I learned during my travels.

Question 1. Did you have a lot of good experiences? Was Russia really bad?

Yes, I would say about 85-90% of my experiences were good, which compared to many bloggers out there, makes me feel extremely lucky and blessed.

Question 2. Would you do it again if you could?
Yes and No. I could do Russia again. In fact, I was strongly considering staying in Zgrad. I have made so many friends there, and I loved the people I worked with. But, as much as I enjoyed my time there, Russia itself is not for me. I want to see more of the world, to experience life and different cultures. But most importantly, I want to work as more than a ESL teacher. I want to be in a place where I can use my skills to work with and help people on a more personal level.

Top 15 things I've learned:
1. Friendship is as much about being humble enough to take and accept help as it is about giving help.

2. Ice hurts. It is my mortal enemy.

3. No matter how long the winter may last, spring is always on the other side.

4. Even when you feel absolutely alone and isolated from everything familiar, the stars and moon are so much bigger than you. In fact, they are big enough to connect you and your loved ones back home.

5. It's as important to have laughter in your work atmosphere as it is to have professional respect.

6. When your AD isn't happy, no one says a word.

7. Students come in all shapes, sizes and personalities. The trick is to find out more about them than their name.

8. It is possible to have your favorite student in your class be your worst nightmare.

9. I absolutely love and adore my New English File Intermediate class and my English in Mind Intermediate class. Which basically makes me think that intermediate is the best level to teach.

10. I am extremely blessed to have such a wonderful group of coworkers and friends.

11. I don't have to feel guilty when things go well for me. When I do get gifts and blessings, I should accept them with thanks and realize that maybe, just maybe, I might deserve them after all.

12. Life is full of ups and downs, but I worship a God is absolutely in control.

13. There are no such things as coincidences. Everything is a chain of events with a purpose.

14. Sushi really is fantastically amazing!

15. When you work hard and refuse to give up, dreams really do come true, even if they're not what you expected.

Well, here they are dear readers. The faithful few who have kept up with my journey know some of the highs and lows of my life as a ESL teacher in Zgrad, Russia. Maybe I've inspired you, scared you, or just entertained you. Either way, thank you for taking this journey with me.

As for some good news. This is not the end. While I am not going back to Russia, I have wrangled a job which requires my frequent travel around the US. Indeed, from August 2011 to May 2012 I will be living out of a suitcase and motel/hotel rooms across the US as I visit schools to present Camfel Productions' videos to students. I am extremely excited about this new opportunity God has given me. I get to continue working with students and traveling. So, stay tuned as I create my new blog to capture my life as a nomadic citizen exploring my countries greatest wonders.

Sincerely yours,
Your Home-again-Russian-traveller

Homecoming Adventures

Argh. I can't even remember the last time I posted a blog, it has been so long, but I am finally making amends and correcting my mistakes. So much has happened. Truly, I've been a very busy beaver/English teacher/daughter/tourist.

I now teach over 40 hours between my scheduled company classes and my private students. My year long classes have been trained to my expectations, and we get along well with each other for the most part. I really love all of my students, even the troublesome ones. They add character to the class. These last three weeks will be a challenge though, as we finish up the books and begin reviews for end-of-year exams.

Unfortunately, I was absent the last two weeks, so I have no idea where my students are right now. This past week was a scheduled break. Instead of a normal spring break, teachers who took the short vacation at Christmas time were given a week off in May. I ended up taking two weeks off in order to surprise my mom at home.

Homecoming:
My first week back in the states was a whirlwind. By the time I arrived in the States, I had gone over 50 hours without sleep. By the time I went to sleep, I had gone almost 60 hours without sleep. Let's just say the middle seat in 747 is not that conducive to a good night's rest.

The rest of my time was spent with my parents and grandparents, driving them places, talking with them, eating with them, etc. I also slept an extraordinary amount. The first few days went well, but by Tuesday I was awake at 3am and asleep by 8:30/9:00.

On Friday/Saturday, I flew to Lburg, Virginia in order to meet with all of my friends. I stayed with a university friend and her mom for the week. I spent the week catching up with friends and teachers, including a trip to my Inklings writers' group- which was amazing. I forgot how much I enjoyed those get-togethers.

On Friday my friend Victoria drove me up to D.C where she, her son Balian, and I spent the day touring the National Mall for hours and hours. By the time we got to the motel, we were absolutely exhausted! I flew out Saturday and returned today, Sunday.

It was good that I went home. I forgot how much I missed it. Going home gave me new hope and clarity (as well as an empty wallet). It was a great emotional roller coaster ride, but I got through it. And now I am ready to finish up what I've begun.

The Return:
Now that I'm home, I can't help but compare today's trip to Russia to my first trip into Russia. So much has changed. I remember when I first arrived. I was scared and nervous, and could not even read the alphabet. I felt like a lamb mindlessly following those in front of her. Today, I was actually able to help a couple of newcomers with their immigration forms, etc.

When I arrived the first time, I had a LL driver meet me and drive me to Zgrad in a cloud of smog and heat enveloping me. Today, I found my own taxi driver, negotiated my own price and rode home in sunshine.

My first day in Russia, the ATM ate my card and I came home from the grocery store with a bag of bread, milk, mineral water, and cereal. Today, the ATM worked and I before my first hour in Zgrad was up, I had bought potatoes, pears, apples, bananas, rice, milk, cheese twists and still water.

I am now sitting comfortably in my furnished room, listening to NCIS: SWAK and thinking back on my trip to the US, my return trip to Russia, and my future return trip home.

Sincerely,
Your Russian Traveller

It's Here

Spring has finally stretched its fingers enough to tickle the frozen grounds of Zelenograd. First one finger gently reaches out as warm sun rays. Soon, the blocks of ice lining the streets begin to unfold in streams of watery rivulets, pooling in the conclaves of the streets and sidewalks. But spring likes to have its fun, and like the tease it is, it goes away and allows the snow to fall once again, its virgin whiteness covering the unhidden cigarette butts and pieces of long-forgotten trash. The pools of water turn to slush and sludge. After all, Spring can't be too easy on us. But when he chooses to, Spring returns bearing fresh gifts. Maybe a small green stem here, a baby leaf there. Warm tendrils and lingering kisses on our cheeks. If ever there was a playboy, his name was Spring. When he comes, you forget to be mad at him for taking his dear, sweet time. Instead, you openly embrace him with open arms and return the trail of kisses by basking in his glory with long walks under freshly-leafed trees.

Winter, in its magnificent splendor was lovely. And we need the cover of white snow to encompass and hide our transgressions. But winter is frozen and closed, an elusive mistress that costs too much. Spring is open and welcoming. It both takes and gives. And, Spring is here.

Sincerely,
Your Russian Traveller